The Quays  Press

On the waterfront, a prime contender N.Y. skyline view complements cuisine at The Quays in Hoboken Friday, December 24, 2004 BY S.J. GINTZLER For the Star-Ledger The Quays is a ritzy spot for a romantic tête-à-tête and a memorable meal. Dinner at the three-month-old Hoboken eatery might consist of stuffed quail followed by venison flank steak au poivre or potato-wrapped salmon with preserved lemon. Ambience: Classy and contemporary. Nestled along the banks of the Hudson River with spectacular views of the New York skyline, The Quays -- pronounced "keys," meaning "wharfs" -- artfully mimics a ship. Architectural features resembling sails sweep across the facade. Wood and metal "ribs" ring the space, like the hull of a ship. Metallic mesh on the ceiling echoes fishing nets. Vintage maritime photos decorate both the bar-lounge, dotted with couches and banquettes, and the main dining room, divided by gossamer curtains Staff: Especially attentive. Food: Innovative world cuisine, with a nod to Ireland. Dinner began with crisp rolls individually served. A bottle of Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon ($27) hit the right mellow note. Starters were beautifully constructed. An ensemble of lump crab cake ($12) crowned in a poached colossal shrimp set on haricot vert and organic mache was ringed by a mellow mustard sauce. Merguez sausage ($9, a spicy North African sausage) surrounding a mound of nicely seasoned couscous was a perfect pairing. A five-alarm gumbo of duck confit ($8) was tempered when mixed with its accompanying rice. Gently steamed Molly Malone cockles and mussels ($10) in a chorizo/potato/chive/habanero broth were surprisingly mild. Entrees were winning, but not as all-around impressive. An excellent miso glazed Chilean sea bass ($24) was served in a sea of wood ear mushrooms, Chinese long beans and baby carrots and garnished with fried chips of lotus root. A formidable braised lamb shank ($24) supported by an earthy bed of pumpkin-sage spaetzle and a tomato confit was topped in flash-fried spinach. The char-grilled filet mignon ($29), accompanied by good garlic-roasted mashed potatoes and haricot vert in a thick wild mushroom sauce, was average. Guinness-braised short ribs ($25) were eye-catching, the meat set atop the bones from which they were separated, the whole resting on crisp cheddar polenta fries. But the meat was fatty. Other entrees include seared breast of Long Island duck in a cranberry Grand Marnier sauce ($25), veal osso bucco in a wild mushroom ragout ($24) and couscous Provencal ($18). Of the kitchen-prepared desserts, the bread pudding in a hard whiskey sauce and a chocolate volcano cake were first rate. The coconut ginger crème brulée was lackluster. The Quays is worth a visit for its clever decor, mostly delicious food and friendly, accommodating service. Food: *** Ambience: *** Service: *** Overall: *** THE QUAYS 310 Sinatra Drive, Hoboken. (201) 656-2521. *** Pronounced "keys," The Quays (wharfs) is a handsome eatery artfully resembling a ship docked at the Hudson River with views of the New York skyline. The creative world cuisine served is mostly terrific. Winning starters: pan-seared lump crab cake ($12), gumbo of duck confit ($8), steamed cockles and mussels ($10). The braised lamb shank with pumpkin spaetzle ($24) and miso glazed Chilean sea bass ($24) were superior to the average filet mignon ($29) and fatty but beautifully served Guinness braised short ribs ($25). Try the bread pudding and chocolate volcano cake. Lunch: noon-5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Brunch: 11 a.m.- 4 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. Dinner: 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 4-11 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. (12/24/04) -- S.J.G. FB CC CA S/NS RV WA